Discovering New Zealand’s South Island by Road

Author: Kiwi Karen Become a contributor

And you wouldn’t be completely wrong – we have all those things, even the hobbit holes still exist in Matamata where Hobbiton was created for the Lord of the Rings movies. No doubt they will be re-used as Peter Jackson shoots the Hobbit, along with the detailed indoor set built just north of Wellington.

But the “real New Zealand” is all about an experience you can really only have by getting off the main tourist tracks and connecting with local kiwis. Eat and drink where the locals eat, and allow time for those conversations that might give you some great insights or tips for your day’s activities.

Never be afraid to ask for suggestions, or tell people you are lost – kiwis are known for being some of the friendliest people in the world, and pretty much everyone is happy to help.

If you enjoy taking a few risks when you travel, enjoy the unpredictable, and love having great stories to tell when you get back home, then New Zealand is one of the safest countries in the world to get away from the road well travelled and really explore.

Hire a camper van

One of the most popular ways to do this is to hire a camper van from the point you land in the country – which will be either Auckland (at the top of the country and New Zealand’s largest city) or Christchurch, in the centre of the South Island and gateway to all that is wonderful about this southern land.

If you have plenty of time – from at least two weeks to a month or so, you should be able to take in both islands, but if you are limited to less than two weeks, focus on one island and save the other for your next trip.

Choose a motorhome rental with plenty of space and a comfortable double bed if you are travelling as a couple. Most quality motorhomes have built in bathroom and kitchen facilities, so you can be completely self contained, stopping where and when you want without causing any problems.

Christchurch and beyond

This time round, let’s assume you have taken the very wise decision to land in Christchurch and want to head towards some of the country’s most spectacular landscapes – to the West and South of Christchurch.

Take a little time to explore the city itself before you head away – there are plenty of places to park your van for the night, or you might choose to stay in a local bed and breakfast or holiday park. The Top 10 Holiday Park group have locations all over New Zealand, and are the highest rated holiday parks in each location. Christchurch’s Top 10 Holiday Park is a great choice for Christchurch accommodation, giving you the option of motel rooms, cabins or sites to park your campervan, plus great shared facilities.

Take the chance to meet some of the locals by wandering down to the nearby Northlands shopping mall, or carrying on past Northlands to the Papanui shopping centre. Christchurch is not an overly touristy city, so you have plenty of chances to meet and talk to born and bred New Zealanders as you go. Catching a bus into the central city gives you another chance to get a taste of real New Zealand, and keeps you away from the tourist traps.

There are free buses in the central city area, so you can have a good look around, and enjoy for free locations like the city’s Botanic Gardens which are definitely worth a visit. Drop into the Canterbury Museum to get an insight into what makes this country tick – once again, still free, although they are happy to receive donations.

Things to do in Christchurch

If it’s a weekend, just over the road you can browse through the Arts Centre markets, which run every Saturday and Sunday through the year. The market stalls focus on genuine, kiwi made products – some suitable for taking home as souvenirs, others you might wish to consume immediately!

If you time it right, there is a very good chance of being in Christchurch when there is a festival of one kind or another going on. Over the summer months, the city council runs a Summertimes programme, which means there are free outdoor entertainment events around the city every weekend. Following hot on the heels of Summertimes is the Festival of Romance and Festival of Flowers, which happen in February each year, then the Ellerslie Flower Show, which runs for a week in Hagley Park (next to the Botanic Gardens).

Visit christchurchnz.com to see what events are coming up when you are planning your trip.

If you are keen on experiencing the rugged and dramatic West Coast, point your vehicle towards the mountains and head west via Arthur’s Pass. On the way, make sure to stop at Castle Hill and enjoy another completely free natural attraction. The rocks at Castle Hill are just phenomenal, and all you need to do is park on the side of the road, and walk for about 15 minutes across a paddock or two. This is a place you need to allow an hour or two to really enjoy and explore.

Take in a picnic or at least a water bottle and on a sunny day, take some time to relax among the dramatic rock formations. This was a sacred place for Maori travelling to and from the West Coast on the greenstone trail, and it has a very special vibe all of its own.

Drive on towards Arthur’s Pass, but don’t miss the chance to take a picture or two at Lake Pearson – our very own mirror lake. This is wide open country, with dramatic contours and a big sky over huge sheep farming properties. Stop in Arthur’s for a meal and a chat with locals, then carry on towards the lush native rainforest that awaits on the other side of the Southern Alps.

New Zealand’s West Coast is known for the very relaxed nature of the local residents, who range from hippy types to alternative lifestylers, artists, farmers, fishermen and women and families who have lived on the Coast for generations. The most notable aspects of the Coast are the stunning light, the crashing Tasman Sea, black iron sand beaches, dramatic cliffs and lush native forests.

Did I mention the pubs?

There was a time when the West Coast of New Zealand had more pubs per head of population than anywhere else in the world. Even today, they still have more than their fair share, and once again, stopping at a few of the local watering holes is a great way to get a feed of West Coast delicacy whitebait (usually  served in a sandwich or omelette) and catch up with the friendly locals.

Once you reach the Coast at Greymouth, head south towards Hokitika and the Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers. This is countryside that will keep you wide awake, with a world of contrasts to appreciate.

Glacier Villages

Stop and stay at the glacier villages and make sure you allow a day or two in case weather is too wet to allow you up the glacier (did I mention the Coast is covered in rainforest for a reason?) You might also want to bliss out in the local hot pools for a while – they are in a wonderful setting amongst mature native bushland.

Once you travel down to South Westland, head across the island via Haast Pass towards Queenstown and the lakes district. Queenstown has the reputation for being the South Island’s party capital, plus of course the place where jumping off a bridge with elastic tied to your ankles became a worldwide hit. This is the town where young travellers tend to gravitate and work – and the skyrocketing property prices have made it difficult for locals to afford to live there.

So unless you want a few nights of partying and hard core tourist activities, carry on out of Queenstown and head for Te Anau, Fiordland where you can take a boat trip out on Milford or Doubtful Sound and enjoy more spectacular scenery.

Invercargill

Keep on travelling south the next day towards Invercargill, where you can taste genuine Bluff oysters (in season) – some of the best in the world. Southlanders are renowned for their hospitality, so take the opportunity to strike up a conversation when you get the chance. Always ask for recommendations on the best places to eat and where to park your van.

If time allows, once you leave Invercargill, make for the Catlins on the East Coast. The scenery and wildlife are both stunning – so if you are a photographer, or you enjoy walking, the Catlins is a must.

Time to head north

And then it is time to point the nose of your van back towards Christchurch again, working your way up the East Coast. A stop at Dunedin to soak up the vibe of this university city is always fun, with plenty of great cafes, local fashion designers and more pubs to enjoy.

Heading north, if it’s summer (December to late February), stop at a roadside stall or two and buy fresh picked strawberries around Waimate, then head inland from Oamaru on State Highway 83 to Omarama, and turn north towards Twizel and Lake Pukaki, for stunning views of Mt Cook/Aoraki – New Zealand’s highest mountain.

Carry on up through Mackenzie Country through Fairlie and lovely Geraldine, then out to the coast again for the last few hours drive back to the city.

This circuit definitely takes in some of the best scenery to be found in New Zealand and you should be able to easily do it in two weeks, with plenty of time to stop and enjoy the places that take your fancy.